Understanding how woven fabric it's created
Weave of the threads/yarn
The textil are structured by weft and warp. To understand the material world is good to know the diference between weft and warp. The warp is the lengthwise yarn or thread what is named the grainline. The lengthwise grain of the fabric, sometimes simply referred to as the grain, runs in the direction of the warp yarns, vertically. Those threads are tighted in the loom before weaveing. The weft is the crosswise yarn or thread. The crosswise grain runs in the direction of the weft yarns, side to side through the warp. The wide of the fabric has more loose than the height. The warp and weft yarms cross at right angles. The bias of a fabric is the forty-five degree angle between the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Yarns more commonly used can be interlaced to form a plain weave, twill weave or satin weave |
Plain Weave/ Taffeta
The weft yarn passes over and under each of the warp yarns alternating the thread or yarn every stitch time. Examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, percale and taffeta.
|
Twill Weave/Serge Twill weave draws a very recognized diagonal lines in the fabric. Weft yarns cross at least two warp yarns before going under one or more yarns.
Examples of fabric with Twill weave are: herringbone, doogstooth, serge, twill flannel, chino, denim, drill, gabardine.
|
Satin Weave Weft yarns goes over one and under several warp yarns to create more luster on the correct or right side of the fabric
Examples of fabric with Satin weave are: shantung, charmeuse, sateen(When the fibres used in the satin weave are from 100% high quality cotton alone, the fabric is called sateen)
|
Digital matrix represents weave structure, (a)Weaving matrix, (b)weaving network (c) weaving structure
Natural Fabric descriptions(animal or plant)
BatisteChambrayChinoSilk |
Dotted swissLinen |
Poplinwool |
Cotton drillCotton drill fabric is a hard wearing and durable textile. Made from 100% cotton, has a diagonal drill weave, strength and structure. Soft and malleable finish.Cotton most famost are: Poplin, canvas, drill, chambray, velvet, crêpon, damask, denim, gingham, linen.
|
OttomanFrannelFlannel is plain or twill woven fabrics, smooth solid with simple diagonal network. Could be cotton, wool, worsted yarn, or synthetic fiber. Flannel fabrics are ideal for suitings, shirting, jackets, bedspreads, and pajamas.
Crepe satin |
CorduroyGingham/VitchyGingham is a medium weight plain-woven fabric made from cotton blends. The word “Gingham” originated from the Malay word “Genggang” meaning “striped” and the fabrics are made with checks as the name suggests
Crepe chiffon |
PiquéLoneta-cottonGauzeOrganzaOrganza basically refers to a thin, plain weave, and a sheer fabric the good ones made with silk yarns, today with synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester.
|
VelvetVelvet is a woven warp pile fabric. Originally fibre was made from cotton and the pile fibre was silk, nowadays fibres are woven in several different types of fibres.
TaffetaTaffeta is made from tightly woven silk or silk-blends, is crisp and can be identified by the characteristic rustling sound it makes when moved. Silk or rayon fabric. Thick fiber with a thin, shiny thread, iridescent look, slighty shiny stiff. Use for night dresses or lining.
Brocat/damask |
GeorgetteGeorgette is a sheer and strong silk, silk georgette has a grainy texture. It is a sheer lightweight fabric .Is usually made out of silk or polyester. As compared to chiffon, it is opaque and slightly heavy. Is slightly thicker and more flexible, slightly heavier than chiffon, less trasnparent than chiffon. Georgette is more often used in soft blouses because it has more structure and body being a slightly thicker fabric.
|
Chiffon Chiffon is a very sheer and light-weight fabric has very good draping, more trasparent and brighter and lighter than Georgette. Some chiffon materials might have crinkly look like georgette
|
Manufactured fabric
Synthetic fibers are composed of chemical compounds derived from petroleum or natural gas. Cellulosic fibers are derived from cellulose, a natural fiber. Because of this natural source for the raw material, many people mistakenly believe that cellulosic fibers are natural fibers. However, chemical processes are used during the manufacture of cellulosic fibers that dissolve, refine, and reconstitute the cellulose. In the process, the cellulose is often weakened or even partially replaced with synthetic compounds.(chezirene.com)